Yellowing and leaf drop of evergreen azaleas can certainly indicate various deficiencies in the soil or in the plant itself.
Yellowing and leaf drop can be an indicator in some cases that the plant is in need of an iron supplement weather in its regular feeding containing an iron supplement ingredient in spring or a direct application of a product known as CHELATED IRON, which will reduce and in most cases reverse the yellowing effect of chlorosis.
My recommendation in this case would be a fertilizer formulated specifically for acid loving plants IE: Rhododendrons & Azaleas, containing an elevated amount of phosphorous and would also contain a certain amount of iron in its formulation as well.
Fertilizing your plants should be done in the early spring as soon as all danger of frost is gone. This will give the plants a terrific boost for springtime growth and get them in vigorous health which they need coming out of a long winter.
Keep in mind that you never want to fertilize your plants in late summer or early fall as this feeding will force the plants into a new flush of growth which will not harden off by the time winter sets in and die back of the new growth will almost certainly occur due to the tenderness of the new lush growth.
Since fertilizing is essential in maintaining good strong and healthy plants, my feeling about the yellowing of the evergreen azaleas in reference here, is not due to an iron deficiency at all, but rather due to another issue which is of natural occurrences in all evergreen or semi-evergreen azaleas, regularly regulated by the changing of seasons and sunlight and water availability.
Since late summer and fall tend to be more on the dry side, and sunlight is available lesser each day, your plants are actually responding to a situation of climatic conditions wherein, they are protecting themselves by shedding some of their leaves, in order to prevent dehydration caused by the dry spell and lack of adequate sunlight to continue photosynthesis in late season. This is not uncommon in all evergreen azaleas.
To be sure that your plants remain healthy going into winter, be sure to water well and add additional mulch around the base of the plant to retain moisture, and your plants will enter the winter months with adequate resources to survive. You will however, still notice that about thirty percent yellowing and leaf drop regardless, as this is a normal function of the plant each year.
On a different note, deciduous azaleas will completely defoliate each fall as this is their normal winter preparation, as is with all deciduous plants and trees. The plants are now going into their dormant state, and making systemic adjustments in order to concentrate more on root development and hardiness protection.
Since the azalea, like all rhododendrons (all azaleas being rhododendrons) tend to be shallow and fibrous rooted, dehydration can be quite a normal event in winter if moisture dissipates prematurely, and adequate mulching isn’t provided at this time.
On a final note, I would add the importance in removal of all leaf litter and debris from around the base of all plants, so as to prevent fungal diseases that are common due to excess moisture from snow coverage, cold temperatures, chilling winds and stagnant air circulation.
Keep the mulch well aerated to allow for good air circulation and water deeply late fall, and winter damage wont be as harsh as one would expect.
These procedures along with a good feeding come spring will bring your azaleas into glorious bloom come May
*** In closing, be sure to eliminate any die back and/or damage you notice that the plant may have suffered during the winter from heavy snow or ice.
Since rhododendrons and azaleas are my favorite plants, I have encountered just such issues as these countless times in my thirty years in the business, so don’t panic when you begin to see some yellowing and leaf drop come each fall, as your azaleas are fine and doing just what they are suppose to in order to survive our climatic changes, and with your added attention come spring, they will thrive beautifully for years to come.
As always, I wish for you a pleasant gardening season and I remain, your humble horticulturist… Chet Stentiford
Yellowing and leaf drop can be an indicator in some cases that the plant is in need of an iron supplement weather in its regular feeding containing an iron supplement ingredient in spring or a direct application of a product known as CHELATED IRON, which will reduce and in most cases reverse the yellowing effect of chlorosis.
My recommendation in this case would be a fertilizer formulated specifically for acid loving plants IE: Rhododendrons & Azaleas, containing an elevated amount of phosphorous and would also contain a certain amount of iron in its formulation as well.
Fertilizing your plants should be done in the early spring as soon as all danger of frost is gone. This will give the plants a terrific boost for springtime growth and get them in vigorous health which they need coming out of a long winter.
Keep in mind that you never want to fertilize your plants in late summer or early fall as this feeding will force the plants into a new flush of growth which will not harden off by the time winter sets in and die back of the new growth will almost certainly occur due to the tenderness of the new lush growth.
Since fertilizing is essential in maintaining good strong and healthy plants, my feeling about the yellowing of the evergreen azaleas in reference here, is not due to an iron deficiency at all, but rather due to another issue which is of natural occurrences in all evergreen or semi-evergreen azaleas, regularly regulated by the changing of seasons and sunlight and water availability.
Since late summer and fall tend to be more on the dry side, and sunlight is available lesser each day, your plants are actually responding to a situation of climatic conditions wherein, they are protecting themselves by shedding some of their leaves, in order to prevent dehydration caused by the dry spell and lack of adequate sunlight to continue photosynthesis in late season. This is not uncommon in all evergreen azaleas.
To be sure that your plants remain healthy going into winter, be sure to water well and add additional mulch around the base of the plant to retain moisture, and your plants will enter the winter months with adequate resources to survive. You will however, still notice that about thirty percent yellowing and leaf drop regardless, as this is a normal function of the plant each year.
On a different note, deciduous azaleas will completely defoliate each fall as this is their normal winter preparation, as is with all deciduous plants and trees. The plants are now going into their dormant state, and making systemic adjustments in order to concentrate more on root development and hardiness protection.
Since the azalea, like all rhododendrons (all azaleas being rhododendrons) tend to be shallow and fibrous rooted, dehydration can be quite a normal event in winter if moisture dissipates prematurely, and adequate mulching isn’t provided at this time.
On a final note, I would add the importance in removal of all leaf litter and debris from around the base of all plants, so as to prevent fungal diseases that are common due to excess moisture from snow coverage, cold temperatures, chilling winds and stagnant air circulation.
Keep the mulch well aerated to allow for good air circulation and water deeply late fall, and winter damage wont be as harsh as one would expect.
These procedures along with a good feeding come spring will bring your azaleas into glorious bloom come May
*** In closing, be sure to eliminate any die back and/or damage you notice that the plant may have suffered during the winter from heavy snow or ice.
Since rhododendrons and azaleas are my favorite plants, I have encountered just such issues as these countless times in my thirty years in the business, so don’t panic when you begin to see some yellowing and leaf drop come each fall, as your azaleas are fine and doing just what they are suppose to in order to survive our climatic changes, and with your added attention come spring, they will thrive beautifully for years to come.
As always, I wish for you a pleasant gardening season and I remain, your humble horticulturist… Chet Stentiford
For over thirty years, Chet Stentiford has designed individualized landscapes that cut against the grain of conventional gardens. Focusing primarily on natural design concepts, his approach breaks with the traditional gardens created today by most landscape firms.
Chet holds a degree in ornamental horticulture and has worked in design, construction, and in the retail and wholesale nursery trades enabling him to work efficiently with clients and contractors.
Chet is an event speaker, available to talk to garden clubs and similar Organizations.
His writing about New England gardens appears in local magazines.
Currently, Chet hosts the Saugus SCTV Channel 8 Creative Gardens with the Saugonian Gardener program here in Saugus, Mass. The program may also be viewed outside the Saugus Community TV web site.
Chet holds a degree in ornamental horticulture and has worked in design, construction, and in the retail and wholesale nursery trades enabling him to work efficiently with clients and contractors.
Chet is an event speaker, available to talk to garden clubs and similar Organizations.
His writing about New England gardens appears in local magazines.
Currently, Chet hosts the Saugus SCTV Channel 8 Creative Gardens with the Saugonian Gardener program here in Saugus, Mass. The program may also be viewed outside the Saugus Community TV web site.
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